Mt. Malkalu lies in eastern part of Nepal. Mt. Malkalu rises to 8463m. above the sea level. Mr Jean Couzy of France scaled Mt. Malkalu 1st time on May 15, 1955 via west Face. It lies in the northeast region of Nepal’s Himalaya and close neighbor to Mount Everest. Makalu means the Great Black One, so called due to its dark brooding appearance.
This highest mountain lies at position of : Latitude: 27 °53’23’’ & Longitude 87°05’20’’
1st Nepali Climber: Mr. Ang Chepal Sherpa (May 01, 1978)
Normal Ascent Route: North West Face
Caravan Route: Ktm- Tumlingtar-Chichila-Num-Yak Kharkha-BC
Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) Expedition in Nepal is very adventurous route to climb because on the Mount Makalu west face it is a little bit dangerous as well. The 5 attempts were made before climbing this mountain; then only it was succeeded in the final. The West Face of this mountain was successfully scaled in 1997. The Russian expedition had taken the route of this West Face of mount Makalu, leaded by Sergey Efimov and climbed the top on 21st of May via the most difficult route. The last part of the route had gone on Parago ridge. Alexei Bolotov, Yuri Ermachek, Dmitri Pavlenko, Igor Bugachevski and Nikolai Jiline had climbed on the top of mount Makalu at this time For this ascent they were awarded the “Gold ice-axe”.
The routes are of 4 parts:
The bottom part starts from the base of the West Face at 5800 meters and climbs to the hanging ice-fall at 6100 meters to the right part of the ice-fall. The second part extends from the plateau above the ice-fall along 35 to 45 degree elevation’s rock up to the 6500 meters high. The next section is an ice-rock wall, 50 to 55 degrees steep & that extends to 7400 meters height. The last final section begins 70 to 75 degree elevation’s rock pillar, which leads to the west ridge at 8000 meters height till to the top of the summit.
Ropes are typically fixed from 5800 meters to 6100 meters and from 6500 meters to 7500 meters. Camps established by the Russian Team were at the following locations. The French Route on the West Pillar is an aesthetically stunning line that has been seldom attempted. It is an exceedingly difficult, a very steep pillar that was first successfully ascended in 1971. The crux of the line comes at approximately 7600 meters in the area of the Seignior Wall. The first US team to summit was in 1980, they scaled via this West Pillar Route. The team was made up of Jim States, John Roskelley, Kim Momb and Chris Kopczynski. They topped on the summit of Mount Makalu (8463 meters / 27766 feet) without the use of oxygen and Sherpa support.
