Kami Rita Sherpa 2nd Ascents of this Season 12 Years of Service

Mt. Dhaulagiri


The 7th highest mountain peak in the world is Mt. Dhaulagiri. It is the 5th highest one amongst in Nepal. This mountain is located in the Northwest of Myagdi District of Nepal. Dhavala means “White” and Giri means “Mountain peak” from Sanskrit, is a real giant which endorse to say the range of White Mountains as Dhavala-giri here after called Mt.Dhaulagiri in combined. The real altitude of Mt Dhaulagiri is (8,167m) from sea level. Mt. Dhaulagiri is one of the most formidable peaks to climb with the first successful summit only in 1960 by the Swiss following from the Northeast ridge. This mountain was first sighted by the British surveyors in India in the early 1800s but remained virtually unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. Five ridges buttress Dhaulagiri l and even up until the early 1980’s only the Northeast ridge had been successfully climbed. Dhaulagiri is considered the most interesting peak among the eight thousand meters one. In terms of rise above the terrain Dhaulagiri is unparalleled as it rises 7000m over Kali Gandaki valley over horizontal length of 30km, which by any standard is an impressive statistic.

This highest mountain lies at position of:Latitude: 28º 41’ 46” & Longitude: 83º 29’ 43”
1st Nepali Climber: Mr. Nawang Dorje Sherpa
Normal Ascent Route: North East Ridge
Caravan Route:Ktm.- Beni Bazaar-Marpha-Yak Kharka-Dhaulagiri Base Camp


Mount Dhaulagiri (8167m.) was first climbed by the Swiss in 1960. Its name is derived from Sanskrit ” Dhavala” means “White” and girl is “Mountain” The mountain was sighted by British surveyors in India in the early 1800s and was mapped by one of the secret Indian surveyors, the pundits, in 1873, but the region remained largely unknown until a Swiss aerial survey in 1949. The French mount Annapurna expedition in 1950 had permission to climb either Annapurna or Dhaulagiri but decided on Annapurna after a reconnaissance of Dhaulagiri . A Swiss party failed in 1953 as did an Argentine group one year later. After four more expeditions had failed, eight members of a Swiss expedition reached the summit in 1960. The climb followed a circuitous route around the mountain from Tukuche, over Dhampus pass As French Col, to approach the summit from the North-East Col., The expedition was supplied by a Swiss Pilatus Porter aircraft, the “Yeti” which landed on the North-East Col at 5977m. Near the end of the expedition the plane crashed near Dhampus pass and the pilots, including the famous Emil Wick, walked down the mountain to Tukuche.

Tragedy struck in 1969 when an avalanche killed seven members of a US expedition on the East Dhaulagiri Glacier. The peak was climbed by the Japanese in 1970s, the Americans in 1973 and the Italians in 1976. Captain Emil Wick airdropped supplies to the US expedition from a Pilatus Porter aircraft. Among the delicacies he dropped were two bottles of wine and a live chicken. The Sherpas would not allow the chicken to be killed on the mountain, so it became the expedition pet. It was carried, snow-blind and crippled with frostbitten feet, to Marpha, where it finally ended up in the cooking pot.



Day 01: Arrival Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 02: Preparing Expedition
Day 03: Briefing in Ministtry of Tourism
Day 04: Drive by Bus to Beni & Galeshor Camp
Day 05: Galeshor – Tato Pani
Day 06: Tatopani – Ghasa
Day 07: Larjung – Marpha
Day 08: Marpha – Yak Khark
Day 09: Yak Khark – Dhaulagiri Base Camp
Day 10-39 : Climbing Period of Dhaulagiri 8167m.
Day 40: Prepared for coming back
Day 41: Dhaulagiri Base camp – Yak Khark
Day 42: Yak Khark – Jomsom
Day 43: Fly Jomsom – Pokhara – Kathmandu
Day 44: Kathmandu
Day 45: Kathmandu Departure



  • Airport transfers (domestic both way)
  • Press conference arrangement.
  • Accommodation with breakfast.
  • Climbing Permit fee for Mt. Lhotse and Sagarmatha National Park fee.
  • Food & Fuel during the trek and expedition period.
  • North Face or similar quality high altitude tent for higher camps
  • Single tent for each member, staffs, climbing Sherpa at the base camp.
  • 5/5 bottles of oxygen per member and guide with mask and regulator.
  • Staff: Base camp Guide, Cook, Cook helper.
  • Porters/Yaks to and from base camp.
  • One high altitude Sherpa for one climber (1:1) who assist you whilst on climbing and summit attempt as well as carries food and gears to high camps.
  • Government liaison officer, his insurance, daily allowance, equipment allowance and flight fares.
  • Flight fare for member and staff (Kathmandu – Lukla – Kathmandu).
  • Insurance, equipment allowance, wages and daily allowance for expedition staffs.
  • All camping equipment: sleeping tents, mattress, dining tent, toilet tent, mess tent, store tent, table & chairs and other necessary kitchen utensils whilst on trekking and expedition.
  • Group climbing equipment
  • First Aid kit bag, trekking map & duffel bag.
  • Solar panel at the base camp.
  • Restop toilet bag.
  • Satellite phone (Pay Call).
  • Mountain cans cleaning at high camps.
  • Cargo transportation to supply the food and gears to Lukla and back
  • All ground transportation
  • Necessary documentation and governmental official paper works.
  • All applicable taxes as per the government rules and regulations.

  • Personal climbing gears.
  • Extra hotels in Kathmandu (after 4 nights).
  • Personal climbing insurance which covers travel, medical, accident, evacuation etc.
  • Lunch & dinner in Kathmandu.
  • Emergency Rescue evacuation by helicopter.
  • Applicable permit fees and custom charges for using communication equipment, commercial filming, satellite phone, radio etc.
  • Carrying bonus + Summit bonus for climbing Sherpa
  • Personal expenses such as laundry, telephone, e-mail, etc.
  • Bar and beverage bills.
  • Custom clearances in Kathmandu International airport.
  • Gratitude (tip) for the staff etc.
  • All others expenses not mentioned on price includes section.

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